Climbing Grades

Climbing Grades

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Posted March 12th, 2009 by admin

We tend to use the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) for grading climbs in this area. The system consists of five classes indicating the technical difficulty of the hardest section (taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)):

  • Class 1 is walking with a low chance of injury and a fall unlikely to be fatal.
  • Classes 2 and 3 are steeper scrambling with increased exposure and a greater chance of severe injury, but falls are not always fatal.
  • Class 4 can involve short steep sections where the use of a rope is recommended, and un-roped falls could be fatal.
  • Class 5 is considered true rock climbing, predominantly on vertical or near vertical rock, and requires skill and a rope to proceed safely. Un-roped falls would result in severe injury or death.
  • In theory, Class 6 exists and is used to grade aid climbing (where progress is made by climbing directly on equipment placed in or on the rock and not the rock itself). However, the separate A (aid) rating system became popular instead.

The following equivalencing table comes from that same Widipedia article.

YDS (Canada, USA) British (UK)
Tech/Adj
French UIAA (Central Europe) Eastern Germany (Central Europe) Ewbank (Australia, NZ, South Africa) Finnish Norwegian Brazilian
5.2     1 I I       Isup
5.3     2 II II 11     II
5.4     3 III III 12   3 IIsup
5.5 4a VD 4 IV IV 12   4 III
5.6   S 5a V− V 13 5− 5− IIIsup
5.7 4b HS 5b V VI 14 5 5 IV
  4c     V+   15      
5.8   VS 5c VI− VIIa 16 5+ 5+ IVsup
5.9 5a HVS 6a VI VIIb 17   6− V
5.10a   E1 6a+ VI+ VIIc 18 6− 6−/6 VI
5.10b 5b   6b     19     VI/VI+
5.10c   E2 6b+ VII− VIIIa 20 6 6 VIsup/VI+
5.10d 5c   6c VII VIIIb 21   6+ VIsup
5.11a   E3 6c+ VII+ VIIIc 22 6+ 7− 7a
5.11b     6c+     23   7 7b
5.11c 6a E4 7a VIII− IXa 24 7− 7+ 7c
5.11d     7a VIII IXb     7+/8- 8a
5.12a   E5 7a+ VIII+ IXc 25 7+ 8− 8b
5.12b 6b   7b     26 8− 8 8c
5.12c   E6 7b+ IX− Xa 27 8 8/8+ 9a
5.12d 6c   7c IX Xb 28 8+ 8+ 9b
5.13a   E7 7c+ IX+ Xc 29 9− 9− 9c
5.13b     8a       9    
5.13c 7a   8a+ X−   30 9+ 9−/9 10a
5.13d   E8 8b X   31 10− 9 10b
5.14a     8b+ X+   32 10 9/9+ 10c
5.14b 7b   8c     33 10+ 9+ 11a
5.14c   E9 8c+ XI−   34 11− 10− 11b
5.14d 7c   9a XI   35 11 10 11c
5.15a     9a+ XI+         12a
5.15b     9b           12b